How can we safely insulate downlights

October 10th, 2010

I have a question.
Like many modern homes ours has ‘down lights’ set into the ceiling. I have heard of instances where Pink Bats or similar insulation panels have been installed over the top of such lights in an attempt to provide a ‘continuous blanket’ of ceiling insulation and this has led to fires in the ceiling space. Is there a solution to this problem?
Cheers and thank you.
Stuart Young

3 Comments

Sarah Free, Energy Advisor, October 11th, 2010 on 1:52 am

Hi Stuart,

Insulation must not be installed closer to downlights than the manufacturer’s specifications and in no circumstances should it be installed over the top of the downlight fittings as this could result in overheating and a fire.

There are a few options for you.

Consumer NZ recently did a study looking at the energy lost by having downlights (heat lost directly into ceiling through through light and heat from the downlight itself, and heat lost through gaps in the insulation).

They concluded that it was cost-effective to replace old downlights with new CA rated fittings designed specifically for CFLs.

CA fittings (closed and abutted) mean that the downlight is encased in its fitting with only small holes to allow heat to escape into the ceiling. Abutted means that the insulation can be placed right up to but not over the downlight fitting

See http://www.consumer.org.nz/reports/recessed-downlights/dont-cover-downlights

The other option which we recommend is to remove the downlights altogether, gib and plaster the gaps, and replace the downlights with surface mounted fittings. You can get a wide selection of these now, many of which look similar to the traditional downlight.

Does anyone else have any comments on this? It would be great to hear from anyone who has replaced their traditional downlights recently!

Cheers, Sarah Free (energy advisor)

Reply
Paul, November 21st, 2010 on 9:48 am

I reccomend replacing all downlights, they are known as “heat chimneys” in the industry, as most draw warm air from the room below tham to help cool them.

Insualtion must be kept up to 200 mm away from them, depending on the type (200 mm for Halogen) down to close abutted (next to the downlight) if it is marked accordingly, but be careful – 99% of downlights are not marked at all meaning 200 mm becomes mandatory. Ignoring this can void insurance. Refer to New Zealand Standard 4246 A1.

To illistrate – some lights use around 80% of the energy they use in heat, and the other 20% in producing light. As an example, Halogen downlights can get a surface temperature of around 550 degrees C. Think how hot that is, when we kiwis cook our roast meals at between 180 to 200 Deg C……

Better still, LED downlight generate virtually no heat, use around 10% of the energy traditional lighting uses, and last approx 15 times longer……. they are more expensive, but the benefits are there. Some LED’s can have insulation installed over them, therefore you can retain a downlight look, save energy and minimise heat loss.

Reply
Jeff, January 19th, 2011 on 1:27 am

Paul, does this mean you support downlights for helping heating since clearly 550 degrees will reverse any heat loss from the room?
What I want to know is what on earth is an honest downlight rating that all electrical wholesalers etc can be told that us homeowners can have in our houses covering our insurance fully. The sales guy today said we need to change our halogen lights to a CA rating. When I said I can do this myself, being an electrician, he said to see a mate of his who knows the right type of lights because there are 3 different CA ratings and only 1 is covered sufficently for putting the batts right up to it.
Is this true or is it another common scam of how people recommend friends with getting a percentage for themselves too? What a disgusting greedy lifestyle we live in these days so at least kids born today die before their parents as punishment and the younger adults and teenagers aren’t much better off either!

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